Proper Base Station & Mobile Grounding

Proper grounding of your equipment is very important. Not only in performance, but if you’re running high power, there are health risks involved with stray RF emissions. I know of cases where operators have gotten shocks while keying up and touching the mic to their lips. Proper grounding will correct this problem.

In setting up a base station, placing an 8′ ground rod into the ground directly below the antenna is recommended.

Run a #8 solid copper ground wire from the U-Clamp, attaching the antenna to the mast. Add a second 1/4-20 nut to the clamp. The ground rod and ground wire are available at hardware or electrical supply stores.

Seal all these connections. Silicone rubber will work, but it deteriorates in the weather. The best product is Coax Seal. It is a pliable plastic putty that never hardens or cracks. It stays weather-tight indefinitely.

I strongly suggest using it on all outside connections. One roll will make several connections. At $ 2.50 a roll, that’s cheap insurance. Most antenna problems are connections … Avoid them!

Next, connect all the chassis together with copper braid and run another #8 wire to the same ground rod or place another ground rod near the equipment. The copper braid removed from the coax will work fine.

First, strip the coax and slide the center conductor out. Then flatten the braid and tin about 1″ at and drill an appropriate size hole at each end.

Attach the braid to each piece of radio equipment using the equipment cover screws or ground connections provided by the manufacturer. The radio, amplifier, tuner, meters, TVI filter, etc., should be connected together and grounded.

This will usually help prevent RFI problems and RF feedback, which causes audio distortion and squealing in severe cases. In mobile installations, it’s recommended that the power supply come directly from the battery, both positive and negative.

If a linear amplifier is used, it is mandatory for clean performance that both supply wires be at least #10 for up to 250 watts and are connected directly to the battery.

Also, inline fuses of a larger value than in the equipment should be installed at the battery. This will protect the vehicle from short circuits.

I also recommend battery post extenders. They serve two purposes.

First, they make the accessory wires easily accessible after the installation.

Second, they keep your wire connections separated by brass from the post connection, extending the life of the connection.

Also, battery terminal protector spray further protects against corrosion. This can be purchased at any automotive store.

I use NAPA Balkamp #765-1303, but any will do. All that remains is grounding the radio to a local chassis ground with a piece of braid. Connect the two with a short braid if the linear amp is physically attached to the radio.

If the amp is under the seat or remote, ground it to the closest chassis ground point. These methods should improve the quality of your signal, outgoing and incoming.

If you are experiencing an alternator whine, a power line filter may help. All that remains is grounding the radio to a local chassis ground with a piece of braid.

If a linear amp is physically attached to the radio, connect the two with a short braid. If the amp is under the seat or remote, ground it to the closest chassis ground point.

These methods should improve the quality of your signal, outgoing and incoming. If you are experiencing an alternator whine, a power line filter may help.

All that remains is grounding the radio to a local chassis ground with a piece of braid. If a linear amp is physically attached to the radio, connect the two with a short braid.

If the amp is under the seat or remote, ground it to the closest chassis ground point. These methods should improve the quality of your signal, outgoing and incoming. If you are experiencing an alternator whine, a power line filter may help.

Here is a list of products that we have in stock to help with these connections: